What outboard repair covers
- No-start and hard-start diagnosis: fuel, ignition, battery and wiring
- Water pump and impeller service, the top cause of overheating and lost tell-tale flow
- Gear lube change with a milky-lube check for water intrusion in the lower unit
- Ethanol fuel damage: varnished carburetors and fuel systems, phase-separated fuel
- Shift and trim troubleshooting
- Anode inspection and replacement
The $150 visit fee is credited to the job. You get the price in writing before any work starts.
Most outboard trouble calls trace back to fuel or cooling
A lost tell-tale stream (the small "pee stream" of cooling water) almost always means the water pump impeller, a blocked tell-tale passage, or a stuck thermostat, and it is worth shutting down and checking before it turns into an overheat. On the start side, ethanol gas that has sat over a winter or a season is the most common cause of hard starting or rough running: it absorbs water and can separate into layers, and it varnishes carburetors and fuel injection components over time. Fresh, stabilized fuel and a working fuel filter head off most of it.
2-stroke and 4-stroke need different care
Modern outboards are mostly 4-stroke, with their own crankcase oil and periodic oil changes. Older or lighter outboards are often 2-stroke, burning oil rather than holding a crankcase supply, either premixed or injected. Each has its own oil spec, and Brad matches the oil and service interval to the engine rather than treating every outboard the same.
Milky or cloudy gear lube in the lower unit is a leak, not a fluid problem. It means water has gotten past a seal, and it is worth investigating before it causes bigger internal damage.
Flush after every use
A quick freshwater flush of the cooling system after each outing, even in freshwater, cuts down on corrosion and mineral buildup inside the engine. It is one of the simplest habits that keeps an outboard running longer between shop visits.
Not sure if it's the outboard or something else
If the engine cranks but won't fire, clicks but doesn't crank, or dies right after starting, the boat won't start guide walks through the symptom tree before you call anyone. Heading into winter, see boat winterization for outboard-specific layup.
Where Brad works on outboards
Common questions
What brands of outboard do you work on?
Mercury, Yamaha, Suzuki and Honda, both 2-stroke and 4-stroke, EFI and direct injection.
My outboard won't start, where do you begin?
Fuel, battery and ignition first, since old or ethanol-damaged fuel is the single most common cause. See the boat won't start guide for the full symptom tree, or text a photo and Brad will start there.
Do you do lower unit and gear lube work?
Yes. Gear lube service with a milky-lube check, water pump and impeller service, and lower unit seal work.
How often does the water pump need service?
Outboard makers generally call for the water pump and impeller kit every one to three years, but the exact interval is model specific. Check your owner's manual, or ask Brad to check it at the next visit.
Running a sterndrive or inboard instead? See sterndrive repair or marine engine repair.
Outboard acting up
Text a photo of the engine and what it's doing, and Brad will tell you what he thinks it needs.